Beyond Comic-Con: San Diego’s beaches and Pacific views are its real stars

As fans flock to the famous sci-fi, fantasy and comic convention, we skip the event halls in favour of the best of the Californian citys outdoor life

High above me, traffic rumbled along the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge as commuters headed to work. But in Chicano Park, directly beneath the huge, curving structure, life was quieter. I soon realised, though, that this hadnt always been the case. The park, in Barrio Logan, one of San Diegos oldest neighbourhoods, is not a conventional urban space, nor is its history straightforward.

Adorning the many concrete bridge supports are large, colourful intricate murals often the work of several artists that tell the story of the parks controversial creation, as well as conveying defiant slogans and mythical images with resonance to the Mexican-American community. The citys Chicano population (a chosen identity for some Mexican-Americans) saw Barrio Logan affected by freeway building in the early 1960s, with families forced out during construction of the bridge, which was completed in 1969.

Historical mural at Chicano Park. Barrio Logan. Photograph: Alamy

Alarmed at the destruction, the community made demands of the authorities, among them enough land to create a park. But only a small patch of ground was allocated. When bulldozers arrived on 22 April 1970, some Chicanos thought it was to work on the park: it wasnt, it was to build a police station. The community took over the park for 12 days planting flowers and starting the murals until the city relented and agreed to build the park.

As the cars zipped by overhead, Mario Torero Acevedo, an artist and one of those involved in the takeover, explained the murals to me. Dressed in red beret and black jacket, arms flailing in description and frequently interrupted by locals who fist-bumped or hugged him Mario started with Chicano Park Takeover. Its images are based on newspaper photos of activists stopping bulldozers but also of the community coming together to cultivate land. Marios own Rage of La Raza mural depicts the anger of Mexican-American people, with its staring male eyes, naked female figure and a child of the future above the Chicano Park logo. He pointed out Voz Libre, dedicated to Pedro J Gonzalez, host of one of Californias first Spanish-language radio shows, and the Childrens Mural which only kids could contribute to.

Mural in Chicano Park painted on a support for the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge. Photograph: Robert Hull for the Guardian

This was not what I had expected from San Diego, a city often in the shadow of its Californian neighbour, Los Angeles (a two-hour drive north along the Pacific Coast Highway), and where one of the biggest annual events is Comic-Con (19-22 July). There is an irony in a four-day jamboree of events for around 100,000 fans of sci-fi and fantasy films, TV shows, comic books and video games being held in a convention centre in the middle of summer in a city geared up for the great outdoors, and in a county that has 70 miles of coastline.

But San Diego kept offering the unexpected. At the Cabrillo Monument (admission $15), an excellent viewpoint from which to gain a sense of the countys complex geography, I looked over the Pacific Ocean and then to the citys islands, beaches and imposing naval base. The site celebrates Juan Rodrguez Cabrillo, who in 1542 became the first European to set foot on what would become California.

Cali calling Cabrillo National Monument. Photograph: Michael Runkel/Getty Images

I took several of the short trails around the monument and the nearby lighthouse but those views were the highlight and without looking too hard, I was able to see Mexico. If LA is close, Mexico is even nearer: the border town of Tijuana is 15 miles south and made possible a cross-border trip with Tony Uribe, who hosts vineyard tours of the Guadalupe Valley for the charity Baja Wine Tour for a Cause. It was a great opportunity to see a slice of Mexican life, though also vital to factor in time at the border crossing, where queues can sometimes be lengthy.

The previous day, morning cobwebs had been swept away on a hike trail around Torrey Pines state natural reserve, with its wildflowers and cacti and panoramic views over a choppy-looking Pacific. The reserve is a 30-minute drive north of Downtown and is close to the beach at La Jolla, where wetsuited up, I tackled the ocean on a 90-minute kayak trip with Everyday California ($44). The superb surfing is a clue: the waves can sometimes get a bit too powerful for novice kayakers.

Torrey Pines state natural reserve. Photograph: Robert Hull for the Guardian

Of course, San Diego is not without its missteps. The Gaslamp Quarter is the historic heart of Downtown with its Victorian-era buildings. In reality, its a nightlife hub that feels too engineered. In search of diversity in food, drink and shopping, its better to head for neighbourhoods like North Park (Urban Solace, Folk Arts Rare Records, and Holsem Coffee), the East Village (You and Yours Distilling) or Barrio Logan (embrace the queue for tacos at Salud!). And while every US city seems intent on the title of craft-beer capital, San Diego (and the county) does have 100 breweries. I tried flight-tastings at award-winning, established ones Societe, Coronado Brewing Co, and Modern Times on a trip with Brew Hop Tours (tours from $75pp). Once Id signed a no-barfing-in-the-van waiver, that is. Societes Feral ale was particularly distinctive and became a fast favourite.

Modern Times bar and its Michael Jackson and Bubbles mosaic, made out of thousands of Post-It notes. Photograph: Robert Hull for the Guardian

It felt apt to finish with an afternoon in another delightful open space Balboa Park if only because it underlined how San Diego seems to do things well but without the whole world realising it. At more than 485 hectares, it is one of the biggest urban parks in the US (significantly larger than Central Park) and includes 15 major museums, the San Diego Zoo, theatres and themed gardens. This year the park is celebrating its 150th birthday and as I rode the free shuttle bus that links many of its attractions, I couldnt help feeling that perhaps it was time San Diego came out from the shadows a bit more.
The trip was provided by the San Diego Tourism Authority with accommodation at the Kona Kai Resort and Spa (doubles from $140, room only) and Sofia Hotel (doubles from $138, room only). Car hire by Enterprise

San Diego like a local

Residents give their tips on the bayside city

Summer Nixon, tour guide, Brew Hop

Beach at La Jolla Shores

Try the
Neighborhood Bar on G street (with its Noble Experiment Speakeasy in the back) for the laid-back feel and the speakeasys killer cocktails. Or the Small Bar, in the University Heights neighbourhood for bloody mary brunches, local brews and a mellow atmosphere.

Panama 66 in Balboa Park; its inside the Sculpture Garden and has outdoor seating with an incredible view of the parks landmark tower. In the evening it feels romantic and you can visit for dinner or drinks before catching a play at the parks theatre.

La Jolla Shores. Theres a kids playground, bathrooms and showers, and a long expanse of beach with low surf, access for watersports and a grassy area if you want to barbecue or set up a tent away from the sand.

Go to Kate Sessions Park north of Mission Bay for a picnic and look over the entire city from a nice lawn.

Hidden highlight
The Little Italy Farmers Market on Saturday mornings (9am-2pm): expansive, bustling, delicious, live music and great people-watching.

Jeff Terich, local music critic, music editor at San Diego CityBeat, co-host of the local television show Unherd

Taco heaven Salud! Photograph: Robert Hull for the Guardian

As someone who appreciates cocktails with fresh ingredients and metal music, I often find myself indulging in both at
Kindred in South Park.

Theres not a week that goes by for me without having a few tacos, and the best ones in town are made at Salud! in Barrio Logan.

If you come to San Diego, you absolutely have to pay a visit to The Casbah, a club that not only consistently books the best bands but always feels like home.

Hidden highlight
Pioneer Park is a favourite off-the-beaten-path site because its the only public park where you can have a picnic among gravestones.

Melanie Michaud, owner of Graffiti Beach boutique in the South Park neighbourhood

Cucina Urbana

My favourite is the
Rose Wine Bar in South Park. It manages to be busy but still feel cosy rather than overcrowded. It serves a huge range of natural wine and the brunch dishes are amazing (from $10).

The food and the ambience at Cucina Urbana in Bankers Hill are exceptional. Also, I love that you can pick the bottle of wine you want with your meal off the store shelf and pay retail price for it.

Hidden highlight
Check out the suspension bridge over a gorge thats in the middle of a city neighbourhood, Bankers Hill (close to the north-western corner of Balboa Park). The pedestrian Spruce Street Suspension Bridge is a little tricky to find but definitely worth checking out.

This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase. All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative.
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